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Patek Philippe Reinvents the Perpetual Calendar Again with Ref. 5320G › WatchTime - USA's No.1 Watch Magazine patek philippe super copy

Patek Philippe Reinvents the Perpetual Calendar Again with Ref. 5320G Written by
Mark Bernardo
April 5, 2017 share   tweet   share   Patek Philippe, which famously gave the world its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar in 1925, reached into its prestigious history with that complication to inspire the new Ref. 5320G, launched at Baselworld 2017. While much post-Basel attention has been justifiably paid to Patek’s technically groundbreaking “Advanced Research” piece, the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G , this new perpetual calendar timepiece and its “retro-modern” design should not be overlooked.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G – front

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar bears the vintage influence of several historical predecessors, including that groundbreaking 1925 model — a unique piece dubbed 97’975, and currently part of the collection at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva — as well as several other perpetual calendar watches from the 1940s and 1950s, most of which make only rare appearances nowadays, usually on the auction block. Patek first integrated the perpetual calendar wristwatch into its regular collection in 1941 with the introduction of Ref. 1518, a watch that combined a perpetual calendar with a chronograph. A year later, Ref. 1526, a model without a chronograph function, debuted. Both pieces pioneered the distinctive dial design that still today defines Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendar timepieces: a double aperture directly below 12 o’clock for the day and month displays, and a subdial at 6 o’clock with a moon-phase indicator surrounded by an analog date display. This watch, with its historical-looking cream-colored lacquer dial, adds a few new, subtle elements to this classical layout: a small, round day-night aperture between 7 and 8 o’clock and a round aperture for the leap-year cycle, with Arabic numerals from 1 to 4, between 4 and 5 o’clock. Other familiar elements include the applied gold Arabic numerals and five-minute cabochons with luminous coating, fine-tipped baton hands filled with Super-LumiNova (a callback to Patek’s Ref. 1463 chronograph from the 1950s), a thin, counterbalanced sweep seconds hand; and the graduated seconds scale around the dial’s perimeter.

The Ref. 5320G Perpetual calendar adds day-night and leap-year indications to the classical dial layout.

The watch’s manufacture movement is Caliber 324 S Q (“S” for seconds, “Q” for quantième perpétuel, or perpetual calendar), based on Patek’s self-winding Caliber 324, which is powered by a large rotor in 21K gold. On the dial side are four disks for the perpetual calendar displays, each rotating at its own rate inside its dial aperture: the day disk, at one revolution per week; month disk, at one revolution per year; leap year disk, at one full cycle over eight years; and the day/night disk, at one rotation per day. The moon-phase disk, behind the analog date at 6 o’clock, requires only one single-day correction every 122 years —  which corresponds to a miniscule daily error of 0.02 per mil. The other side of the movement boasts the array of haute horlogerie finishes and technical refinements for which Patek Philippe has become renowned: bridges with round-chamfered and polished edges; Geneva striping; gold-filled engravings, screws with polished, chamfered slots in bores with polished countersinks; a Gyromax balance with Spiromax balance spring made of high-tech Silinvar; and the aforementioned solid-gold rotor, suspended between ball bearings and decorated with perlage, circular graining, and an engraved Calatrava cross. Like all modern Patek Philippe calibers, this one meets the strict precision and quality criteria of the Patek Philippe seal, meaning, among other things, that its maximum rate deviation ranges between -3 and +2 seconds per day.

Patek Philippe Caliber 24 S Q, front (above) and back (below)

The case, made of 18K white-gold, measures 40 mm in diameter and 11.44 mm thick. Like the movement, which is visible through a sapphire caseback, it is crafted entirely in-house, from design to final polishing. Its vintage-influenced design architecture includes so-called “box-form” sapphire crystal over the dial, which enabled the watchmakers to keep the case flanks slender. Visibly extending across the bezel, this crystal is dramatically curved, with parallel inner and outer sides, in order to prevent visual distortion of the dial regardless of the viewing angle. (Of course, such a crystal would’ve been impossible to execute in sapphire back in the 1940s and 1950s, so this watch’s historical predecessors used scratch-resistant plexiglas instead.)

Further demonstrating Patek’s attention to detail, and adherence to this watch’s heritage, even the design of the lugs comes from a 60-year-old predecessor. The Patek Philippe Ref. 2405 introduced the prominent, three-tiered, lug profile revived in the Ref. 5320G, which — in combination with the flat case middle, the beveled, polished bezel, and the overarching, curved crystal — makes for an elegant silhouette on the wrist. Also, a bonus for those who prefer an even more vintage-appropriate style: the watch comes with a solid white-gold caseback that can be swapped with the sapphire exhibition back.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar comes on a lined, hand-stitched, chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales. It fastens with an 18K white gold foldover clasp in the shape of Patek’s iconic Calatrava cross. Its price in the U.S. will be approximately $82,800.

The curving three-tiered lugs are inspired by the historical Ref. 2405. Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G – soldier share   tweet   share   Tags: Patek Philippe , Perpetual Calendar

3 Responses to “Patek Philippe Reinvents the Perpetual Calendar Again with Ref. 5320G”
Show all responses Arthur Weston June 16, 2017

This perpetual is pretty much a direct copy of the very rare Ref 1591 from 1944, one example of which is in the Patek Museum! Search the museum’s inventory and see for yourself! Most articles have missed the fact that the Ref 1591 is a perpetual calendar with luminous syringe hands, luminous arabic numerals, a sweep seconds hand, day and month in separate apertures below 12 o’clock and moon-phase and date at 6 o’clock. In the flesh the Ref 5320 is truly special and wears smaller than 40mm – in my opinion.

Reply Joseph Conway April 5, 2017

The class of the act.

Reply Oliviero Colleoni April 5, 2017

This new entry Patek will defy all quantieme competitor on the market . For me the best Patek quantieme ever made.

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What have your priorities been since taking over the brand in March 2013? From the beginning, our discussions with our clients have led us to improve the quality of our watches and increase the amount of jewelry offered in the boutiques. While the design of Harry Winston watches has never been called into question, and even less so with the very creative saga of the Opus models developed with authentic watchmaking, the number of remarks with regard to the reliability of the technical content persuaded us to strengthen this aspect immediately. Aside from the movements, we have also taken a fresh look at the construction of the cases, as well as the manufacture of the strap attachments, whose comfort needed improving. Our target is irreproachable quality… at every level. Parallel to this, the former owners had decided to cease production of the Avenue line, but its iconic character convinced us to keep it. We are committed to offering a wide range to women, and not only in the field of jewelry watches.

And on that note, what have you decided as far as jewelry crafts are concerned? Historically, Harry Winston’s High Jewelry workshops have been located in New York on 5 th Avenue, where we have maintained this decision-making center, as opposed to watchmaking, which we felt it would be better to repatriate to Geneva, within our Manufacture. We have made two major changes in our jewelry entity in order to better meet the needs of the clientele: firstly, by opening a second workshop in order to double our production capacity, and then by investing in precious stones in order to work less on a consignment basis. Carried out simultaneously, these two operations enable us to have larger stocks and a broader range in our boutiques, which are also increasing in number.

To what extent? Harry Winston will never be one of those brands with boutiques on every street corner. Having said this, at the beginning of the year, we had around 20 Harry Winston boutiques, and by the end of 2015, we will have more than 30. While expanding existing points of sale such as Beijing, we have just opened several in Cannes, Las Vegas, Hawaii, Macao, three in Japan and in the next few months are planning others in Dubai, Istanbul, Miami and Rome, not to mention a second boutique in Switzerland along with St. Moritz this winter, as well as the first one in Germany, which will welcome clients on four floors in Dusseldorf! In parallel, our head of distribution, who is based in Geneva and who came to us from Breguet, oversees a network of around 200 retailers all over the world.

What is the main change with regard to jewelry? And watchmaking? There is no question of revolutionizing Harry Winston’s jewelry collections, but instead of expanding and energizing them. The pillars will remain, such as the Iconic, Cluster and Incredibles lines. Platinum and diamonds will always be on the agenda. We might offer greater choice with creations mounted on yellow or white gold in the more accessible ranges.  We have just launched a new collection, Secret by Harry Winston, while maintaining the brand’s DNA and history, which holds that behind each piece lies a secret. The range of ladies’ watches will be expanded, notably with automatic movements and small complications. The jewelry watches will be given several variations that are better suited to retailers than our flagship pieces, which can cost up to a million francs in our boutiques. Men will be delighted to learn that the Opus saga will start again after Baselworld, where our teams will unveil not just the Z9 in the sports line in Zalium, but also the sequel to the Histoire de Tourbillon concept, for which we have already worked on developments 6, 7, 8 and 9! Generally speaking, all the movements in the men’s and ladies’ watches will be specially developed for Harry Winston either by Blancpain or by ETA, the Swatch Group’s integrated Manufacture.

The new releases at Baselworld 2014 focused on exceptional dials. Is this a new trend? Special dials are part of Harry Winston’s territory of expression. This strength in the creativity of the Premier line, embodied here under our Métiers d’Art label, will reach unprecedented heights at Baselworld, with particularly innovative new dials. We will doubtless be copied but we will be the pioneers.

Your passion for horses hasn’t yet become a source of inspiration for Harry Winston? Drawing one’s inspiration from the things one loves is natural and easy, but unfortunately I don’t think there is any link between Harry Winston and horseriding! We won’t go down this road unless we do it within the exceptional framework of the Year of the Horse in the Chinese calendar, which will obviously not leave a single brand indifferent.

How do you judge the results of the Geneva boutique that opened a year ago? Every boutique opening brings its own sources of satisfaction as well as aspects to be improved over time and Geneva is no exception to this rule. Especially seeing as the past year saw fewer tourists than usual on the banks of Lake Léman and we hope for more in 2015. Harry Winston’s clientele traditionally consists of locals, but mainly of Arabs, Asians, Russians and Americans. What has been very interesting in Geneva is that people from the region have been able to discover our universe and make their first purchase. That included watches, engagement rings or charm bracelets, but a significant number of first-time Harry Winston purchases by local clients took the form of a watch. Given that the least expensive sells for just under CHF 20,000, that’s not bad for an initial contact with the brand!

Girard-Perregaux - Vintage 1945 XXL Chronograph

When Haute Horlogerie meets the decorative arts, time takes on another dimension. The sober lines of the new Vintage 1945 XXL Chronograph evoke the aesthetic heritage of the early twentieth century that Girard-Perregaux has so consistently espoused. At its heart, the GP03300 self-winding manufacture caliber happily measures short intervals of time with the precision you expect from the great.

In a vibrant tribute to Art Deco, the straight lines melt into curves and back again in perfect balance. Fashioned in pink gold or steel, the rectangular case places the Art Deco's notion of geometry at the heart of its design. Its generous size is compensated by an ergonomically convex silhouette which makes it comfortable to wear. Alternately polished and satin-brushed, the subtle finish showcases the watch's functions. The two chronograph counters face each other and assert the piece's symmetry. The blued steel hands match the central seconds hand, while the hours and minutes are measured by dauphine style hands. The applied Arabic numerals recall the refinement of classic watches, and the “railroad” minute track recalls the original Vintage 1945. The curved dial is an appropriate space for the measurement of time and a crowning touch for the style of the watch. The sapphire case-back opens on to the cunning mechanism entirely designed, manufactured and assembled in-house by the Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds. The caliber GP03300 reveals its Haute Horlogerie pedigree, hand finished as tradition demands, in between the sweeps of its gold oscillating weight. Evidently, elegance does not show its age. While the new Vintage 1945 XXL Chronograph is a resolutely modern watch, every aesthetic and technical detail points to the expertise of a brand that draws on a constantly renewed heritage going back over two centuries.

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PATEK PHILIPPE شما اینجا هستید » فروشگاه ساعت و عینک پرسیوم - خانه فروشگاه PATEK PHILIPPE برند پتک فیلیپ برند پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

پتک‌ فيليپ يک شرکت سوييسی سازنده‌ ساعت‌های فوق لوکس مستقر در منطقه‌ پلان‌لِزوت شهر ژُنِو است. این کمپانی یکی از برجسته ترین شرکت های ساعت سازی جهان در زمینه تولید ساعت های خاص است. این کمپانی به دلیل تولید ساعت های بسیار گران بها و با کیفیت بی نظیر شهرت دارد. از این جهت در طول سالیان زیاد فعالیت این کمپانی تا کنون محصولات این شرکت مورد توجه ویژه کلکسیونرها بوده است. پتک‌ فيليپ اکنون به‌عنوان يکی از پراعتبارترين و البته گران‌قيمت‌ترين برندهای ساعت مچی در دنيا شناخته می‌شود. ساعت های اتوماتیک تولیدی این کمپانی جزء پیچیده ترین ساعت های جهان می باشند، که از نظر ظرافت و زیبایی در دنیا رقبای زیادی ندارد، البته تمام قطعات موتور و بدنه ساعت پتک فیلیپ را نیز خود این کمپانی تولید می کند.

موسس کمپانی پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

اين شرکت در سال 1851 با شراکت دو ساعت‌ساز به نام‌های آنتونی پتک و آدرين فيليپ برپا شد. آنتونی پتک لهستانی در سال 1839 کار ساختن ساعت‌های جيبی را به همراه شريک لهستانی خود فرَنتيژِک چَپِک در ژنو آغاز کرد. آن‌ها در سال 1844 از هم جدا شدند و يک سال بعد پتک به آدرين فيليپ فرانسوی که مخترع کوک بدون کليد ساعت بود پيوست. نتیجه این همکاری تاسیس کمپانی پتک فیلیپ در سال 1851 بود. امتیاز این کمپانی در سال 1932 به چالز استر و چالز ژان فروخته شد و تا به امروز این شرکت تحت مالکیت این خانواده قرار دارد.

تاریخچه کمپانی پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

شرکت پتک ‌فيليپ از سال 1932 در تملک خانواده‌ استِرن بوده و از سال 2010 توسط تييِری استرن اداره می‌شود. اين شرکت که آخرين ساعت‌ساز خانوادگی مستقل از سنت ساعت‌سازی ژنوی به شمار می‌رود، دارای بيش از دو هزار کارمند و با درآمدی بالغ بر 765 ميليون يورو بوده و در سال 2012 تعداد 50 هزار ساعت مچی توليد کرده است. از سال 2009 پتک‌ فيليپ برچسب کيفيتی را با استانداردهايی فراتر از معيارهای رسمی راه‌انداری کرده است. اين شرکت ارزش‌های حرفه‌ای خود را به اين صورت معرفی می‌کند: استقلال، سنت، نوآوری، کيفيت و مهارت، کميابی، ارزشمندی، ظرافت و زيبايی، خدمات، شور و ميراث‌داری.

در سال 2014 پتک ‌فيليپ برای صد و هفتاد و پنجمين سالگرد خود چند مدل لوکس از ساعت‌های مچی مردانه و زنانه را عرضه کرده است. اکثر اين مدل‌ها کوکی و يا خودکار (Self-Winding) هستند. همچنين در سال 2015 پتک‌ فيليپ مجموعه‌ نسبتا بزرگی از مدل‌های تازه‌ ساعت مچی روانه‌ بازار کرده است. 21 مدل مردانه از کلکسيون‌های کالاتراوا، گاندُلو، ناتيلوس، کامپليکِيشِنز، و گرَند کامپليکِيشِنز، و 10 مدل زنانه از کلسيون‌های کالاتراوا، اَکوانات، ناتيلوس، و کامپليکِيشِنز در اين مجموعه قرار دارند.

تولیدات پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

پتک‌ فيليپ از پيش‌گامان استفاده از تقويم هميشگی، دنگ دقيقه و عقربه‌ زمان‌سنج بوده و صاحب حق مالکيت (Patent) بيش از 80 اختراع است. قطعات ساعت‌های پتک ‌فيليپ همگی در خود اين شرکت ساخته می‌شوند. در سال 1989 و به مناسبت صد و پنجاهمين سال تأسيس پتک ‌فيليپ، اين شرکت از يکی از پيچيده‌ترين ساعت‌های مکانيکی که تا کنون در دنيا ساخته شده، رونمايی کرد. اين ساعت که کاليبر89 ناميده می‌شود، دارای 39 عملکرد، از جمله نمايش تاريخ عيد پاک، وقت طلوع خورشيد، معادله‌ وقت، وقت نجومی و بسياری عملکردهای ديگر است. تنها برای نمايش وقت نجومی (وقتی که بر مبنای سرعت گردش زمين نسبت به ستارگان ثابت و نه خورشيد سنجيده می‌شود) در اين ساعت 1728 قطعه‌ منحصربه‌فرد کار گذاشته شده است. مدل تيپيک (Signature Model) پتک‌ فيليپ که از سال 1932 ساخته می‌شود، کالاتراوا (Calatrava) نام دارد.

ساعت‌های لوکس پتک ‌فيليپ پس از توليد دستگاهی به صورت دستی مورد پرداخت قرار می‌گيرند که شامل تزيينات و تنظيمات دقيق است. پرداخت دستی برای از ميان برداشتن هرگونه ذرات حاصل از ماشين‌کاری که ممکن است مانع از کارکرد دقيق ساعت شوند، پاک کردن قطعات متحرک و صيقل دادن بدنه‌ فلزی انجام می‌پذيرد.

محصولات خاص پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

یکی دیگر از علل خاص بود محصولات تولید شده در کمپانی ساخت ساعت پتک فیلیپ استفاده از موتورهای سلیکونی در محصولات این شرکت می باشد، موتورهای سلیکونی در مقابل تغییرات محیطی و آب و هوایی مقاوم بوده و واکنشی نشان نمی دهند، این نوع تکنولوژی در موتور باعث می شود در تمام شرایط آب و هوایی ساعت پتک فیلیپ به یک منوال کار کند و در طول زمان نیز هیچ تغییری در عملکرد ساعت رخ ندهد.

این کمپانی در تولید ساعت های خود اکثراً از فلزات گرانبها و بسیار با کیفیتی استفاده می کند که استفاده از این آلیاژها باعث درخشدگی و کیفیت نهایی بسیار بالای ساعت ها می شود. در کل پتک فیلیپ در انتخاب آلیاژ برای ساخت ساعت بسیار حساس می باشد و یکی از معدود شرکت های سازنده ساعت است که تا به حال برای ساخت هیچ یک از اجزای ساعت های خود از مواد پلاستیکی استفاده نکرده است که از این رو نیز می توان آن را در جهان بی همتا نامید.

جالب است بدانید بعضی از محصولات این شرکت متشکل از طلا، الماس، برلیان و… می باشد که قیمت بعضی از این محصولات از یک میلیارد نیز فراتر می برد.

يکی از معروف‌ترين ساعت‌هايی که تا امروز توسط شرکت پتک ‌فيليپ ساخته شده، ساعت جيبی موسوم به «فوق‌امکانات» (Supercomplication) است. اين ساعت ظريف که دارای 24 عملکرد مختلف است، در سال 1933 به سفارش بانک‌دار آمريکايی هری گرِيوز و در پی رقابتی دوستانه ميان اين بانک‌دار و دوست اتومبيل‌سازش جِيمز وارد پَکارد عرضه شد. ساعت جيبی مذکور اخيرا در مزايده‌ ساتبيز (Sotheby’s) ژنو به قيمت 24 ميليون دلار به فروش رفت و عنوان گران‌ترين ساعت فروخته‌شده در مزايده را که پيش از اين نيز در اختيار همين ساعت بود، تکرار کرد. همچنين در سال 2008 ساعت توربيليون مچی پتک‌ فيليپ با نام «ماه آسمان» (Sky Moon) به قيمت 4/1 ميليون دلار در مزايده‌ ساتبيز هنگ‌کنگ فروخته شد که رکورد بالاترين بها برای ساعت‌های مچی مدرن را به طور مشترک به همراه ساعتی از واشِرون کُنستانتين (Vacheron Constantin) که در سال 2005 در مزايده‌ آنتيکورِم (Antiquorum) ژنو فروخته شده بود، ثبت کرد. در سال 2010 ساعت مچی پتک‌ فيليپ از جنس طلای زرد که دارای تقويم هميشگی (perpetual calendar) و ماه‌نگار يا صفحه‌ نمايش وضعيت قرص ماه (moon-phase display) است و در سال 1943 ساخته شده، در مزايده‌ کريستيز (Christie’s) به قيمت 5/5 ميليون دلار توسط يک موزه‌ سوييسی خريده شد که يک رکورد محسوب می‌شود. در سال 2013 نيز ساعت مچی شماره‌ 2499 پتک‌ فيليپ لقب گران‌ترين ساعت مچی فروخته‌شده در مزايده‌ آن‌لاين را به خود اختصاص داد. اين ساعت که توسط يک مجموعه‌دار کاليفرنيايی به قيمت 611 هزار دلار در آکشِناتای (Auctionata) برلين خريداری شد، از جنس طلای زرد و دارای تقويم هميشگی و ماه‌نگار است و در سال 1953 ساخته شده است.

موزهء ساعت پتک فیلیپ (PATEK PHILIPPE)

پتک‌ فيليپ از سال 2001 صاحب موزه‌ای در شهر ژنو است که تاريخچه‌ ساعت‌سازی طی پنج قرن را در دو مجموعه گرد آورده است: يکی مجموعه‌ای از ساعت‌های عتيقه از قرن شانزدهم به بعد شامل نخستين ساعت‌های ساخته‌شده، و ديگری کلکسيون ساعت‌های پتک ‌فيليپ از 1839 به بعد، از جمله شامل کاليبر89. از دارندگان پيشين ساعت‌های پتک‌ فيليپ می‌توان از پاپ پيو نهم، ملکه ويکتوريا و پرنس آلبرت انگلستان، پادشاه ويتوريو امانوئله سوم ايتاليا، پادشاه کريستيان نهم و پرنسس لوييز دانمارک و پادشاه حسين کامل مصر نام برد. ملکه ويکتوريا و همسرش پرنس آلبرت از سال 1851 از ساعت‌های پتک‌ فيليپ استفاده می‌کردند. ملکه ويکتوريا در نوامبر اين سال يک ساعت کوکی مدل آويخته از پتک ‌فيليپ را در نمايشگاه بزرگ لندن خريداری کرد. او همچنين يک ساعت منحصربه‌فرد ديگر برای الصاق به لباس از پتک‌ فيليپ خريد که از يک سنجاق الماس و مينا آويزان می‌شد. امروزه پتک ‌فيليپ همچنين عرضه‌کننده‌ جواهراتی شامل دکمه سرآستين، انگشتر و گوشواره برای ست کردن با ساعت‌های خود است. درضمن پتک ‌فيليپ هم‌چنان به توليد تعداد معدودی از مدل‌های ساعت جيبی برای حفظ اين سنت در حال فراموشی ادامه می‌دهد.

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